Making the mold -  2nd layer of silicone rubber has just been applied on this 2 piece mold (left). One more thick layer to go, then the clay barrier (divider) is removed and rubber mold is made on the other side (right). I am testing some new mold material - the pink is Smooth-On's Mold Max shore 20 and the yellow is Mold Max shore 10. Both of them turned out to be too runny for vertical application (even when used with a thickening agent), so I now use Mold Max shore 30 (which is blue) for all of my molds. It has the perfect consistency and is very strong.

When cured, the supporting shell mold is made over the top of the rubber mold (left). This is a fiberglass resin - light and strong (smooth on "Plasti-Paste") . The shell mold is made in three sections to make sure it will come off easily - one section for the back and two sections for the front. The next day, the mold set can be removed and is ready for castings (right).

Mold assembled and poured. Rubberbands hold the mold together around the knobs created for that purpose (left). For additional support, tie the mold tightly with non-stretching rope or sections of bicycle tire  intertube straps tied securely around the mold. A mixture of 90% bronze powder with 10% binder and a touch of black pigment is poured in the bottom opening and rolled around to coat the top 1/4 inch layer of the piece. When the bronze layer has set up, the head is filled with polyurethane resin. The pour takes 2  minutes to harden and can be unmolded in an hour (right).

Next, I used Tiffany green acid patina to give the piece some added depth and color (left).

Buffed with a dremmel tool, waxed with a layer of warm brown wax and buffed, the piece is now ready for mounting on its base (below).